Today's layover was a visit to Bill Baggs State Park at Cape Florida, the tip of Key Biscayne. As Mom and I learned this was a stop on the Underground Railroad as escaped slaves passed as "black Seminoles" and were smuggled to the Caribbean. That all ended when the lighthouse was built in the mid 19th Century.

I hadn't realized mangrove leaves turned colors before.

We treated ourselves to stone crabs, conch fritters, delicious black bean soup, and a colada (I've been up since 4 when I left Rinconcito Lodge for a 7 am flight.)

I dipped my toes in the Atlantic while Mom enjoyed the shade.

We were entertained by wildlife: first a quartet of raccoons scavenging through the trash. They drew as big a crowd as the coatis did at Arenal. And then this flock of ibises (or egrets--my bird book is packed in the checked luggage) checking out the beer and scraps at a barbecue, Stiltsville in the distance.

But all good things must come to an end. We drove back over the Rickenbacker. remembering Crandon Park Zoo and Planet Ocean. The Seaquarium is still there, even if there are a few more skyscrapers on Brickell than when I drew maps to locations for a Chuck Norris film. Slowly working my way home. Reality can wait till after Christmas, right? Pura vida: this *is* the good life. Happy holidays.

Quickly decided that a full day on horseback was not for me and headed to Las Pailas hq in the park where my guide spotted this gorgeous motmot.

We took the ficus trail to the catarata, which was awesome. 85% of Costa Rica's energy is hydroelectric plus the windmills nearby.

Here's a glimpse of the top of volcano. Rain and sun produced a wide rainbow.

Two beautiful magpie jays.

And finally el rio negro, the quasi natural hot springs run by Hacienda Guachepilin. After a long soak, we painted ourselves with mud.

The trip to Rincon de la Vieja took a little longer than I'd hoped: a taxi and three shuttles. But here I am at Rinconcito Lodge surrounded by horses and dogs and birds.

I really wanted to lounge around in the hammock for a while, despite losing my book. But a quick walk by the stables rewarded me with a gorgeous blue Morphos.

And these creatures, whatever they are. (Not a citrus.)

Lots of cool bugs by the volcano too.

And a walk along the river, across this wobbly suspension bridge. Limit 1 person at a time.

Back to the hammock and bougainvillea. That is if the parrots let me sleep.

Theo, Ben, and I ventured down the mountain to the Serpentario. There Jonathan explained which pit vipers were poisonous and which boa constructors weren't. This infographic shows how anti-venom is developed using horses.

A fabulous Costa Rican frog that we woke up to admire the color of its legs and fingers.

We loved the tarantulas. And the breathing of the giant Burmese python.

Then it was a long, beautiful walk to Pizza John's for his famous margarita and coconut ice cream. We met up with the rest of the family there.

Monday's usually his day off, but John made an exception and taught us how to make pirate toasts in Russian. All in all, a fantastic day. Can't wait to try my Zombie Coffee grown on the shores of Arenal.

Tomorrow, on to Rinconcito Lodge.

A lineated woodpecker against the backdrop of the volcano. These were taken with my magic telephoto lens for iPhone.

This relative of a toucan is called a collared aracari. The next picture is the same bird facing the other way.

Scarlet-rumped cacique?

Lone yellow bird in front of the volcano, safe from coatis.

The rain finally stopped so we headed out on the morning ranger walk. The guide quickly found howler monkeys, a hawk, and a spectacled owl sleeping in a tree. After a stroll through La Hormiga trail like the ants it's named for, we boarded the tram for the farm.

Eucalyptus revealed its colors.

Arenal was shrouded in clouds but the base around 2 km away was finally visible.

And then it cleared fully for the first time in 12 days. Arenal is in an inactive state: the smoke to the left is a plume. Last eruption was a year ago.

Delighted with our luck, we wandered to the cataract at the edge of the property. What a difference a little sun makes!

Just finished John Cheever's "A Vision of the World," published in the New Yorker the year I was born. It might be the best short story I've ever read.

Costa Rica is not known for its modest cuisine. Still I've enjoyed many meals including green papaya salad at Seasons by Shlomi, this juicy rare steak from Don Fernando's, and carrot cake from Sarita's Bakery, all in Tamarindo.

Hummingbirds drink well.

Gallo pinto for breakfast at Hotel Bellbird. I'm officially hooked on Lizano Costa Rican salsa, whatever is in that secret sauce. Arroz con pollo at AOL--not quite what I was expecting, but quite delicious. Palmitos (hearts of palm) are plentiful.

Don't tell Renee I indulged in coconut flan. And it was so good!

The waiters are all wearing Santa hats. They add 23% on top of the bill here which includes service but not a tip...

The woman behind me is describing exiting Broadway Terrace off Highway 13. You can't escape the DMV, even thousands of miles from home.

with a view of Lake Arenal through the clouds. Arenal Observatory Lodge (aka AOL) was built as a research facility for vulcanologists.

Still no sign of the volcano, which makes me feel better about not splurging on a view room.

I am a bit perplexed by all the early 70s music on the radio. When was the last time you heard "Fly Robin Fly"? Or "Seasons of the Sun" in Spanish: adios Papa, es dificil morir....Maybe just another bird reference.